A months worth of cookies, actually 35 days.

When you live in a 3rd world country you pick up some strange habits. Going to the grocery store has always been a chore for me. I don't like shopping because I don't like cooking. Well, at least in the US you can go to the store, walk down the isle and buy what you usually buy. Not in the 3rd world. Going to the grocery store is like russian roulette. You never know what you're going to get. The worse place I've been? Bolivia. We all swore that what was on the shelves was just whatever got crammed into the container ship and slowly made it's way South. There were mac and cheese boxes that when you buy don't expire for 5 years and in Bolivia they were going to expire in a few weeks. Dinged cans, old packaging, Halloween candy in January. What happens is that when you do go to the store and find something you like you end up buying the whole shelf. Laura did this with diet coke. We heard a rumor that the special part at the coke plant broke so when we shopped she bought the entire shelf. Good thing too because diet coke went missing for a while.

In the DR it was hummus. You never knew if the store would have it and what kinds.

It is so weird to be back in a place that just stocks their shelves. Unfortunately I've picked up this bad habit of hoarding products when I find ones I like.

This is what my cabinet looks like right now.

I found these cookie/snack things that I like and have been using as my mid morning snack and the only place I can find them in Whole Foods and the one that is convenient to me is always packed in a pain to get in and out of so I got online and look what I did... I ordered $91 in cookies and had them delivered right to my door. Free shipping, I might add.

photoreflection

I was thinking of uploading some photos to the National Geographic photo contest, but after several error messages I decided that maybe I would just put a few of my favorites on my blog...

Inle Lake, Myanmar

I've been thinking about my time in Burma, you know, Myanmar. I feel like that move stretched my comfort zone so far that I've been living in the middle surrounded by the wrinkled, stretched out skin of my zone. The weight of the sac are starting to get to me and I feel like I've got to get out to the limits of my zone, or I'll suffocate. 

Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania 

Patterns in nature, connectivity, expression, purity. I want more of those things in my life.

Sucre, Bolivia

Love, companionship, commitment. I don't know a single gringa that is in a happy, healthy relationship with a local...

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

The best way to bring magic into your life is to be the one creating it.

Lago Verde, Bolivia

Those obstacles, which seem insurmountable, will become your vantage points.

Camino del muerte

Getting a month off for Xmas break sounds good until you realize that you have to give up breaks in the first semester to have enough days to do it. The fact is that pretty much all accredited schools require teachers to work 180 days, and if you take off a month you have to make it up somewhere else. Needless to say the first semester of school has been a long one. We did, however, get 2 days off for Thanksgiving, we are an "American" school after all, and a group of us decided to head to La Paz and try our luck riding bikes down the World's Most Dangerous Road. 

Also known as the Bolivian Road of Death, this road was built by Paraguayan prisoners of war during the 1930's. This region of Bolivia is called the Yungas and the road connects the Amazon region to the capital city of La Paz. The statistics are gruesome. An estimated 200 - 300 people die per year on this road, about one vehicle every two weeks. This is because the road is a single track along steep cliffs and this region is often foggy and rainy. Of course there are no guardrails and when the vehicles drop, they drop.

A new road has recently opened that is paved and wider, and the Death road has become a downhill adventure on a bike. It's just one of those "things" that you have to do when you visit Bolivia, that and the Salt Flats. I've been in Bolivia for a little over a year now and it was time to give it a try.

You start the ride after a 45 minute bus ride from La Paz to La Cumbre at an altitude of 4,700 meters. That's 15,500 feet. The sun's intensity burns your skin cells and it's a struggle to catch your breath as you gear up with the rented equipment to head down 63 km of the World's Most Dangerous Road.

The company we chose is called Gravity Assisted and has the best reputation. They provide all the gear necessary to make the ride as comfortable and safe as possible. They take your height beforehand so that the bike is set just for you. My bike, "los gatos", my padded bike shorts and I were ready to go.

The first part of the journey is on a paved section of the road, which is not technically considered the death road. This part has more traffic and since it's paved you can really get going fast. I don't have many photos from my camera, since my main task was to pay attention to the road and not get hit by a car or go off the cliff's edge. One of our guides rode up ahead and took photos for us and we each got a burned disk to take home. Here's some photos from the first part of the journey.

After an 8 km uphill section, appropriately named, Heartbreak Hill, we caught our breath enough to continue on to the unpaved section which is where the death road begins. To the left you can see the paved section continues on, a recently completed project, but to the right is our destination... on the dirt death road.

The first section built my confidence but as soon as we hit the dirt, I hit the brakes. The brakes are very touchy. You have to be careful how you press them because that could cause you to wreck. Ahhhhhh, so many things to think about and all I want to do is look around and observe my surroundings. I had a boyfriend once that blamed my constant looking around while driving as the cause of traffic problems in our city... I guess I better stay focused.

There were no deaths on the death road, at least not today!

The chance to give

As you know, my dad is sponsoring Ana as my birthday present from last year. She lives here in Santa Cruz de la Sierra, well out in an area called Plan tres mil, which is a dirt section of the city about 25 minutes from the city center. Traveling out to her house you pass cows, horses, hundreds of street dogs and chickens in the streets. The roads quickly turn to dirt and after the heavy rains Monday the mud was thick and gooey.

I don't know why, but it's taken me 3 months to call and make an appointment to see Ana again. The last time I visited I was completely overwhelmed and somewhere deep inside I just wasn't ready for that yet. Luckily I still have the strong desire to please my family, so after weeks of them bugging me, I decided to call and set up another visit. Perfect timing, actually, because Ana turns 15 on the 5th of December. 

I went to a local clothes market and got 36 articles of clothing for $35. I went to a walmart-ish store and bought markers, notebooks, clay, pens, etc. My mom sent stickers and books. With three bags of gifts I headed to the CFCA office so they could drive me to Ana's house. 

This time her mom was there and as we walk up to the "door" I see that she has set the table and cooked a feast for me! Ana comes running over and immediately hugs me and holds on to me, just like last time. It amazes me how close to her I feel when she is holding on so tight. We walk up to the table that is outside the house, and they offer me the only chair that actually has a back. The table is covered with a cloth and there is a bowl of empanadas and juice ready to be served. Ana's mom grabs my hand and starts talking, very fast, in Spanish.

The next thing I know, she is crying and grabs on to me.

You can't imagine what this feels like. The grace, and honesty of this women. This 46 year old women, who has 9 children and lives in a shack with a dirt floor. A woman who does not have a bathroom to clean or any running water to prepare food with. She is full of love and kindness. She is grateful. Grateful for the small amount my dad sends her family each month. She thanks me over and over. It touches my soul. Changes me. How can anyone care about those name brand things? How can I? I can't.

We gather ourselves and pose for some photos. There is a CFCA translator, driver and the church nun with us and they all want photos.

Next thing you know the whole family is there. Ana is next to me in the purple. Look at her smile. Look at her sister in the pink shirt. I'm the first to get frustrated at people who just keep having kids, but being with them changes me. 

On the left is the nun that works with Ana. The driver for CFCA is on the right. In front of me is locro. A traditional Bolivia soup that is VERY basic. The family has chickens and one was slaughtered for my visit. Ana's father works out in the campo (country) so was gone working while I was there, but before he left he wrung a chicken's neck in my honor.

Empanada filled with cheese and sprinkled with sugar. Ana and I are goofing off. I just can't get over how big her smile is.

As the time to leave nears, her smile becomes smaller. She starts to get teary eyed. The family tells me that she has been sick and having problems breathing. She has not visited a doctor. I ask about vitamins and know that I will ask my mom to send some. They tell me that the kids have parasites and need the medicine before they can actually take vitamins. My mind is racing with things I can do for this family. Little things. Buy parasite medicine, vitamins. I feel butterflies in my stomach, thinking about how I can help.

Take a good look at their house. No door, dirt floor. It feels like a home. I know it's hard to believe, but it does. As we drive back to the city and I get closer to my big, comfortable house, with running water and toilets I am consumed with the thought that my dad and mom NEED to come here. My dad needs to see what his generosity is doing. Yes, he could save the money it would cost for a plane ticket and just donate it, but Ana and her family need to meet him. This generous, kind, compassionate man who's tiny effort is so huge. I am proud to be his daughter. 

A Very Special Moment

A month or so ago my school decided that a positive way to increase school spirit would be to have not only student of the month awards, but staff of the month. The assistant principal sent out a form and teachers got to nominate a student. As far as the teacher award, the students met in their homeroom classes and voted. Since that day a few weeks ago, I haven't heard anything. Of course I picked one of my favorites (of course I have favorites, I am human) and nominated her for the award. After that there wasn't much talk about it... until today.

Today was the awards assembly and the day that the AP announced the winners of the awards. The student award went first and it was really touchy feely and you could see the school spirit creeping higher. Well, second was the teacher announcement. On a big screen they projected a power point that started listing characteristics of the person and I have to admit now that I can't really remember them all... but I had a feeling...

Then, it was announced, I was chosen for the Staff Award. I was smiling inside and out and bowed my head and walked to the front of the gym. The entire high school student body and staff were there looking down on me and I started to shake. I am a confident speaker, I can talk in front of anyone, but today I got nervous. I was shaking, and started to tear up as my assistant principal, principal and director all shook my hand and in pure Santa Cruz fashion kissed me on the cheek. Whew, that was nice, but wait, I have to stay in the front? Yup, because down comes three of my students armed with little pieces of paper that they have written a speech about me on! Oh, here comes more tears... it was sooooooo sweet. They grabbed the microphone and started describing why I was chosen. I kind of blacked out during the whole thing, but the one characteristic I remember quite clearly is that one thing they like about me is that I've taught them not to take life too seriously! Really? I did that? Wow. You never know the impact you have on others... One thing I LOVE about being a teacher is that I often DO get to hear the impact I've had, even if it's years later. I am proud to be a teacher. I am proud to work with the young people of the world.

This was a very special moment indeed.

All Saint's Day

Halloween is my favorite holiday, and I suppose since I'm always coming out of my candy coma, or sleeping late from a party I've never really thought about All Saint's Day. This year our school actually gave us the day off, so after going to school on Monday, we had Tuesday off. You've heard me complain that there is not much to do here normally, so having a holiday off was a scary thought.

I decided that since NOTHING would be open today, I would head to a cemetery that I haven't visited yet. The weather today was gorgeous. The smoke has cleared up (hopefully for good) and the sun was shining in a clear blue sky. Of course the city center was empty, but the cemetery was packed. Packed with families gathering to visit with their loved ones. They arrive with gifts of flowers, food, favorite items, and place the items on alters in or around the tombs. There are no grassy grave areas here, just cement walls of tombs, or huge mausoleums of rich families. I love the peacefulness even a packed cemetery brings. I find it fascinating to observe how people deal with death and burials. In another life I would like to study ancient burial rituals. I love the tradition of going together with your extended family to visit relatives.

What captured my attention today were the huge, beautiful trees in a cement filled cemetery.

Who WOULDN'T WANT to live here?

To travel and live in a 3rd world country you need a good sense of humor. That combined with sarcasm makes for some fun times. Laura and I have a very similar personality, I know, you love her already, huh? Today we decided to go for a walk from our house around where we live and document what we see...

First step is to leave the house, which often times is difficult because we know what is waiting out there for us. This afternoon we mustered up the courage to venture out on the streets of Santa Cruz. Here's our house...

Our little neighborhood is quite nice. We pay for it though. The fees to live here are high and without splitting it 3 ways there is no way I could afford to live here, but we do split it and we like it. The neighborhood is very small. There is no way you can just walk around INSIDE the condo complex because it would take 2 minutes. So we head out the entrance to the condo...

Here it is - Condomino Britannia. Today we decide to turn left and head on our walk.

Laura is standing at the wall of the condo and our house is right behind her. I'm on the road that leads to our complex. This section of Santa Cruz is not paved and when the dirt roads become potholed the solution is to take bricks and trash and fill in the holes. Yes, you are seeing a STREET. Oh, you want to see the same street from a different view... ok

Here's looking the other direction. If we go straight from here we would head towards our school, grocery store and downtown. Instead, today, we decide to go the other direction and do some exploring...

Not sure what is happening here, but this "factory" is directly behind our condo on the other side of the dirt road.

This is the other side of our condo, see that little shack looking thing? The guards sit in there and keep an "eye" out along the dirt roads.

Across the other dirt road, behind our condo is this lovely property. Not sure why they have 5 dogs running around, maybe they are guarding something special in there.

Walking along, we stop to admire the trash that has accumulated on the side of the road.

Here we are at the 5th ring of the city. I have no idea why the city department of transportation would decide to just stop paving RIGHT here.

 The city is made up of concentric rings starting in the city center which is surrounded by the first ring. 

We are now at the 5th ring (which isn't really a complete ring) and Av. Grigota and heading away from the city (South West corner of the map)...

This house is on the corner of the random dirt road we live off of and the 5th ring. Oh wait, what is THAT - over there... Look 

A turkey? Yup.

Getting ready to go on Av. Grigota, which is actually called the doble via La Guardia out this way...

This is a MAIN intersection in our town.

Each of the "highways" in the city have a median with a sidewalk, and as we were waiting to cross into the middle this semi passed by. I'm sure it meets all highway regulations and remember safety first.

Here's the paved sidewalk in the median. Nice. Now, let me share some of the "attractions" on each side of the road.

This must be the distribution plant for Arcor, which is a company that makes candy and other sweets. Arcor - magical moments await you.

Just a little restaurant on the corner. Wish you could hear the music blasting from the giant speakers out front.

Need your car washed? I'm sure it's cheap.

Yup, this is on the side of the "highway".

The road to Motel Parus looks nice. Should I book you a room for when you come visit me?

Did you need an industrial sink? I know a couple of good shops.

One of my super pet peeves of this city is that someone has decided to put SPEED BUMPS in the middle of a HIGHWAY! I know, this isn't I-95, but it is the fastest roads here, so why in the world would you put in speed bumps???

I should show you some halfway normal stuff... this actually looks like a real gas station.

Of course, across from the gas station is the agency of beer, oh and some more sinks.

Because I have such a positive outlook on life and although I am super sarcastic and love to see the "funny" side of things, I know that life is what you make of it and I love my life. On our little journey today we also saw this -