Happy Thanksgiving - Jesuit Missions of Bolivia

I may work in South America, but I work for an "American" school, so guess what, I get the next two days off of school to celebrate our time honored tradition of Thanksgiving. My two roommates and I are orphans here in our 3rd world country, so instead of sitting around feeling sorry for ourselves, we've planned a little excursion.

If you pick up the Lonely Planet guide for Bolivia, you will see that one of the highlights for the state of Santa Cruz (which is where I live) is the Jesuit Missions of the Chiquitos. Apparently the Jesuits came to South America and brought their Catholic influences, but uniquely enough, integrated some of the local traditions as well. My students here in the city of Santa Cruz are very proud of that fact. That the missionaries didn't come and kill and enslave people and enforce ALL their traditions, but instead integrated into their church ways into the local culture and just added Jesus, and some crosses and stuff. This all happened as part of the Jesuit Reductions which was a strategy to "christianize the native people more efficiently." The native people were expected to adopt Christianity, but not the European culture. These churches were established between 1696 and 1760 and there are currently six churches in the "circuit" that have made it onto the UNESCO world heritage list and receive support from that organization.

Here is a map of Bolivia. You can see that the eastern portion is the state of Santa Cruz. This is where the Mission Churches are located.


I live in the city of Santa Cruz (affectionately called the armpit of Bolivia by Laura). My roommates and I have hired a driver (with a car) and arranged for a trip that will take us north from Santa Cruz to San Javier, where we will stop to look around, visit churches, musuems, have lunch, etc... We will then head to Concepion, do more of the same and spend the night. The next morning we head east to the "circuit". "Do" the loop of San Ignacio, Santa Ana, San Rafael, and San Miguel. Then we'll head back to Concepcion and then back to Santa Cruz. I don't know the specifics (that's what you get when you spend a little money and get the trip planned for you! It's a strategy that comes in handy every once and a while. Beats waiting for a bus that might never come). I am really looking forward to this four day trip of peace, quiet, and maybe some Jesus sightings. You know how those Catholics are... lots of bloody Jesus' on the cross, Mother Mary with baby Jesus, and Angels. Oh I hear there are going to be lots of Angels!

Learning Spanish (part 1)

I took Latin in high school AND college, O-K. Seriously in the late 80's who knew that I would need Spanish in, not only, my own country, but to travel to all the awesome places on my list - that, by the way, as I travel more, becomes longer, not shorter (but that's another blog post). So I learned Latin. I don't speak Latin, but I do make use of root words every day teaching science - so not a totally wasted skill.

A few years ago I lived in Denver and taught in the "inner city", where 85% of my students learned Spanish as their first language. Sure I learned a bit, a bit of swearing, and bit of slang (I won't embarrass myself with my Spanish potty mouth - right now, anyway).

Then I decide to move to Bolivia. I had no idea how little English would be spoken here. Having never taken a formal Spanish class in my life I didn't know about regular verbs, never mind the slew of irregular verbs. I had no idea about conjugation or how much I truly love the universal YOU in English.

I have been in Bolivia for 4 months. I am sad to report that I still talk like a preschooler - barely. I've been taking a Spanish "class" offered after school two days a week and although I now know about this conjugation thing I still have a hard time using it. I do have to say I am able to understand more and more each day, but the speaking part has got me stumped. I figured out why when someone pointed out to me how much I annunciate my English words. I found that teaching science to second language learners required me to be very clear in the way I speak. I have perfected annunciating words. Well, now that has become my biggest problem. I am a master at English sounds, but because of the way I have trained my mouth to move, I can't seem to quite get the Spanish accent. It's quite annoying, actually. Some of the sound required are just not sounds my 37 year old, very trained mouth can make.

Some days I just want to give up. It's absolutely infuriating when people constantly correct me, when, seriously people, I sound a whole hell of a lot better speaking Spanish then you do speaking English. Do you hear me laughing at the way you pronounce a word, nope, I'm just listening closely and trying to figure out what you are saying. I would appreciate it if you could do the same for me. It has gotten to the point where I don't even want to speak in front of certain people.

The hope is that in a few months, I'll return to my blog and post how wonderfully I'm speaking. How I can get around and everyone understands and compliments me on my perfect accent. So stay tuned, for that blog post... In the meantime - (insert foul word here)

hasta luego

You'll have to wait til December for pictures

And just when I thought I might change my name to Lushy McBingerson, and I needed to figure out how to smuggle cocktails into work I read this:

"vertical mudstone face bearing over 6000 tracks - some of which measure up to 8ocm in diameter - from over 150 different species of dinosaur." Best part, it's very close to where I am right now. I'll be there in December. Not trying to wish my days away, but damn, I'm ready to see something fantastic!

It's the small things really, I know that, I've known that for a long time. Trying to find a balance is much harder.

I'm in, but I can't get out!

Time really is flying by. I've been in Santa Cruz for almost four months and it feels like I just moved here. Although I do have to say that I am getting used to the everyday "sights" here - like men peeing in the street, dirt roads with big pot holes filled with trash (yes, that makes a much smoother ride), stores being closed only during the most convenient times to shop, you know, regular, common occurrences. One of the questions that I have is why people just throw their trash just anywhere. I know people are poor, and uneducated, but doesn't it just make sense to put your trash in a place - maybe, I don't know - in one place a little further out than in your front yard, or the drainage canals in the streets. Hasn't anyone heard of the black plague? Rat infestations? So maybe I'm not getting used to the sights!

We were driving back from lunch with some friends and a car had driven off the road and into the canal... Not a great picture, I know.

Here's a better view... You can see how the city makes an effort to keep the drainage systems clean...

The past couple weeks have been hard. A lot of negativity floating around and it has always been hard for me to separate myself from that. My principal has decided to leave the school. I know, it happens. The bummer is that he is the main reason I chose this school in the first place. His ideas on education are in alignment with mine and now, well, the unknown is a bit scary. Our school doesn't have a great "package" to offer. First of all, it's in Santa Cruz. (Oh, I wish I'd videotaped our little excursion to the market yesterday.) Secondly, the financial package is low and some people actually are motivated by money. Third - which was supposed to be a huge plus - is the travel opportunities!

Awesome!

Being in the literal heart of South America. So much to see, so many places to explore... well guess what... I arrived here 25 July and handed in my passport and haven't seen it since! Yup, I'm an illegal immigrant in this country. I have no idea what my status even is. Would you like to know what it takes to get a work visa in Boliva? Well, I'm not really sure yet, since I don't have one, but here's what I've done so far... Paid $135 - not bad. Been fingerprinted - not bad. Opened a bank account and proved that I have money here - ok, still not bad. Given blood for an AIDS test - WTF? are you kidding me? Does this happen in the US? Can you imagine giving blood in the US for a visa? People would loose it and cry discrimination! Let me think... money, fingerprints, blood... I think that's all - oh and the fact that they actually have my passport and have had it in their possession for 4 months... Makes it hard to take advantage of the travel opportunities when you don't have your passport. I am leaving for Buenos Aires on 28 December so I better have my little blue book in my hand.

I know I'm not painting a lovely picture of this place, but let me tell you - Bolivia has awesome travel opportunities. I would not recommend you visit Santa Cruz for long, but so many other cool places. Go on google images and type in Salar de Uyuni. I'll be there in a few weeks...

Obsessed is such a strong word... I've become... enchanted by the South American condors. Andean condors to be exact. These birds and their meaning to the people of the Andes, keeps popping up. You know about the California condor, right? Their plight for survival? The drive to protect and help them reestablish an existence? My dad and I, on our rafting trip, saw the California condor flying through the Grand Canyon. This critically endangered bird can live up to 50 years! Amazing. HUGE birds with 10 foot wingspans, floating through the atmosphere. Those beady little eyes on the look out for some rotting flesh to tear apart. And what a cool evolutionary adaptation - to not grow feathers on your head so you won't get them all bloody and gross when you plunge your face into the slimy carcass that is now your dinner.

In addition to all that coolness, the condor represents more. While we were on Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca an local woman told us that the condor represents travel. A messenger for the sun. Strength, freedom, power, longevity, health. All sounds pretty good, heh. So I'm thinking that something about the condor has to be incorporated into my Bolivia tattoo. You may think I'm running out of space, well at least my mom wishes I was, but in fact, I have plenty of space to work with and I want my Bolivia tattoo to represent more than just one aspect of life here. I know when some people think of Bolivia, they go, HUH? Where? Is that in Europe? Others, however can conjure up some interesting images. Llama for example. Have you seen how cute their faces are? So I'm on the hunt for designs... Here's one I would like to incorporate... The condor, after all, is the national bird of Bolivia.