Looking over my photos - damn I like some of my animal shots! The thought of organizing the 100's of photos I've taken is daunting. I'd like to create a photo book. Time is such a weird element. I've been wandering, sitting and emersedin toomuch time for a few weeks, but when I get back to Bolivia on Monday at 3 am I'll hit the ground running and all of a sudden crave this time I've been fortunate enough to have. Be assured that I am grateful for my time situation. I love the quantity and qualitity of time that I have. I know that my choices in life have led me to my current situation and I am happy for it.
I walked for miles today. Decided to head back up to the Wall of Tears - this time without the chatter of the group. I walked for 12 km and didn't have much of a care in the world. The whole summer without a cell phone and most of the last three weeks without internet - just being, living and not worrying if someone is trying to contact you, checking your messages obsessively - I like being free of technology once in a while.
Couldn't bear to put my head under the shower and by the way, the baby powder in the hair idea didn't work out too well - so I'll go yet another day with dirty hair. Ya'll know I like to stretch the hair washing limits anyway!
As I passed the same people on the same streets I was overcome with the desire to get outta here! Already thinking of my next travel adventure...
Saturday, July 31, 2010
29 July - Day 55: I'm ready to leave now...
Wandered around all day. I feel like a local, and I don't want to live here. Time for a change.
It's amazing how many fantastic photos you can get when you are still for a while. Most tours zip in and out so quickly that a lot is missed.
For example, I headed to a "pool" area called Concha and Perla. It was peaceful and quiet and seemingly void of any animals besides fish and crabs. I decided to sit with my Kindle for a bit and after a few minutes of being still I hear this sort of snoring noise. Umm, weird and creepy. I follow the noise to a snoring sea lion hiding out in the mangroves. My sitting around with no plans pays off as sea lions wake up from their siestas and explore the pool. I was enjoying the tranquil morning until a group of 15 snorkelers noisely make their way to my spot. It is amazing how different traveling alone can be.
I've walked down the same five roads so many times I think the locals think I've immigrated. No fear immigration, I do not want to live here. Wandering the beach does make me think about Wilmington or maybe the Outer Banks. I've had a few moments of desire to "settle down" during this solo trip. Wouldn't it be great to live somewhere you love? Enjoying what your own town has to offer? My dream location would have electricity, hot water, and either a heated house or a climate where heat isn't necessary.
You'll be impressed with my bird photo collection from today. I suppose those few images are worth a frigid shower.
One more full day on Isabella - deep breath, but two more mornings of horrid rooster calls that start at 4 am. I thought - well I like to eat chicken - so I can't complain too much - unitl I found out that the neighborhood of my hotel is known for cock fighting and these aren't being bred for food, but for fighting. Oh good, I live in the slums of a five street town.
It's amazing how many fantastic photos you can get when you are still for a while. Most tours zip in and out so quickly that a lot is missed.
For example, I headed to a "pool" area called Concha and Perla. It was peaceful and quiet and seemingly void of any animals besides fish and crabs. I decided to sit with my Kindle for a bit and after a few minutes of being still I hear this sort of snoring noise. Umm, weird and creepy. I follow the noise to a snoring sea lion hiding out in the mangroves. My sitting around with no plans pays off as sea lions wake up from their siestas and explore the pool. I was enjoying the tranquil morning until a group of 15 snorkelers noisely make their way to my spot. It is amazing how different traveling alone can be.
I've walked down the same five roads so many times I think the locals think I've immigrated. No fear immigration, I do not want to live here. Wandering the beach does make me think about Wilmington or maybe the Outer Banks. I've had a few moments of desire to "settle down" during this solo trip. Wouldn't it be great to live somewhere you love? Enjoying what your own town has to offer? My dream location would have electricity, hot water, and either a heated house or a climate where heat isn't necessary.
You'll be impressed with my bird photo collection from today. I suppose those few images are worth a frigid shower.
One more full day on Isabella - deep breath, but two more mornings of horrid rooster calls that start at 4 am. I thought - well I like to eat chicken - so I can't complain too much - unitl I found out that the neighborhood of my hotel is known for cock fighting and these aren't being bred for food, but for fighting. Oh good, I live in the slums of a five street town.
28 July - Day 54: Accidently on Purpose
Today started fantastically. After breakfast I found out that my tour was scheduled for 2, so I headed to the beach. At 9 am the beach was completely empty and peaceful. I decided to head west. Most people who visit Isabella do so for only 1-3 days, so my 7 days is a lot of time! Time to get into the nooks and crannies withing walking distance - and I like to walk. Leave it to me to stumble on the town cemetery - just behind the dune of the beach. I kept walking and found huge iguanas basking in the sun, a beach made of solely broken shells and sea urchin spines, salt lagoons, a lava tube, and candelabra cactus trees. There is something to be said about exploring on your own... this morning was perfect.
You ready for the afternoon? I wish I could redo a few parts... ok - I met up with my group for the tour of the turtle center (went there yesterday, but ok) and the Wall of Tears (really want to see this). The group is 2 spanish speaking old women, 2 youngish French women, and 2 young really big guys from Idaho (it´s been a long time since I´ve been around a full sized person), oh and me. Our guide gathers us and we head off to the turtle center. It's nice to be with a guide and get more information. The one Idaho guy understands Spanish better than me and is translating for his friend, so I take full advantage of this situation. Sure enough sometimes I think I understand the Spanish only to find out that I was not on the right track at all...
The guide is a bit chit chatty with all of us and it's a good group. We then head up to the Wall of Tears. After WW II, Ecuador decided not to give in to the the pressures to sell the Galapagos, but instead use Isabella for prisoners. The government sent 300 prisoners to Isabella and of course police to watch over them. Like I said, there is not much to do here, beside animal watch, so the police had to think of a way to keep the prisoners busy and to tire them out. So they thought, oh, let's have the prisoners carry huge pieces of lava over here and make a giant wall. The lava is heavy and super sharp. The sign at the site says that "the strong cry and the weak die". Apparently a lot of prisoners died trying to make a stupid wall. Eventually what do you think happened... yup, the prisoners got control of the camp and tied up the police. The unfinished wall stands here as a reminder of the stupidity of humans.
At the site I am walking ahead of the group and thinking about the people lugging huge rocks when the guide peers around the corner and says something in Spanish and I think he's asking me about the Wall of Tears so I respond that it's horrible. He appears shocked and aked me if I think HE is horrible - and I'm like - oh crap he is talking about what I think of him, not the Wall.... What happens next happens so fast and I fumbled my way into agreeing to see him at 8:30 tonight! WTF just happened? I would pay $100 USD for Laura to be with me right now! I am in total shock - I've agreed to go on a date with a guy and I need someone to support me! LAURA... I try to confide in the Idaho guys and I guess since the topic wasn't potatoes they weren't interested in helping me... HELP.
Next we go to playa de amor - oh great the beach of love. Mr. Guide is more attentive and says my name at least half a dozen times. Ok I'm gonna get out of this...
We get dropped off and he asks to walk with me to my house. Shit -what is this? The issue is that people here know the US from movies - and I'm not about to hook up with a local from Isabella Island. He makes plans to meet me at the corner at 8:30 and my Spanish is too bad to weasel my way out of this. I get back - freeze my ass off in the cold shower - baby power up - and think - this does not feel right. I ask Petita if it's safe and she says yes, but from a robbery or something else? My gut says no, so I'm blowing him off. My solution is to hide out in my room and pray he doesn't come knocking. Wait til you see his photo and the fact that he's wearing a women's velor coat with fur trim and flower embroidered into it. Oh it's super attractive - for a girl!
You ready for the afternoon? I wish I could redo a few parts... ok - I met up with my group for the tour of the turtle center (went there yesterday, but ok) and the Wall of Tears (really want to see this). The group is 2 spanish speaking old women, 2 youngish French women, and 2 young really big guys from Idaho (it´s been a long time since I´ve been around a full sized person), oh and me. Our guide gathers us and we head off to the turtle center. It's nice to be with a guide and get more information. The one Idaho guy understands Spanish better than me and is translating for his friend, so I take full advantage of this situation. Sure enough sometimes I think I understand the Spanish only to find out that I was not on the right track at all...
The guide is a bit chit chatty with all of us and it's a good group. We then head up to the Wall of Tears. After WW II, Ecuador decided not to give in to the the pressures to sell the Galapagos, but instead use Isabella for prisoners. The government sent 300 prisoners to Isabella and of course police to watch over them. Like I said, there is not much to do here, beside animal watch, so the police had to think of a way to keep the prisoners busy and to tire them out. So they thought, oh, let's have the prisoners carry huge pieces of lava over here and make a giant wall. The lava is heavy and super sharp. The sign at the site says that "the strong cry and the weak die". Apparently a lot of prisoners died trying to make a stupid wall. Eventually what do you think happened... yup, the prisoners got control of the camp and tied up the police. The unfinished wall stands here as a reminder of the stupidity of humans.
At the site I am walking ahead of the group and thinking about the people lugging huge rocks when the guide peers around the corner and says something in Spanish and I think he's asking me about the Wall of Tears so I respond that it's horrible. He appears shocked and aked me if I think HE is horrible - and I'm like - oh crap he is talking about what I think of him, not the Wall.... What happens next happens so fast and I fumbled my way into agreeing to see him at 8:30 tonight! WTF just happened? I would pay $100 USD for Laura to be with me right now! I am in total shock - I've agreed to go on a date with a guy and I need someone to support me! LAURA... I try to confide in the Idaho guys and I guess since the topic wasn't potatoes they weren't interested in helping me... HELP.
Next we go to playa de amor - oh great the beach of love. Mr. Guide is more attentive and says my name at least half a dozen times. Ok I'm gonna get out of this...
We get dropped off and he asks to walk with me to my house. Shit -what is this? The issue is that people here know the US from movies - and I'm not about to hook up with a local from Isabella Island. He makes plans to meet me at the corner at 8:30 and my Spanish is too bad to weasel my way out of this. I get back - freeze my ass off in the cold shower - baby power up - and think - this does not feel right. I ask Petita if it's safe and she says yes, but from a robbery or something else? My gut says no, so I'm blowing him off. My solution is to hide out in my room and pray he doesn't come knocking. Wait til you see his photo and the fact that he's wearing a women's velor coat with fur trim and flower embroidered into it. Oh it's super attractive - for a girl!
27 July - Day 53: Mama - my Kindle is the BEST gift!
Keeping with status quo I woke up with no idea of a plan for today. My house mom, Petita, managed to convince her son to take me on a tour of Islet Tintoreras. Apparently she couldn't find a tour for me to join so her daugher and I had our own private boat cruise. I had previously mentioned that I am not a big fan of choppy waves, so we stayed in the calm waters and putted around.
It was absolutely gorgeous. I just can't get over the crystal clear water lapping up onto the black basalt.
On our way over to the islet we spotted two penguins - Galapagos Penguins - the only penguins to venture into the northern hemispere, but of course right now I am just a bit below the equator. The penguins were resting next to some pelicans and a blue footed booby.
I also got my first really good spotting of sea turtles. The brother boat captain let us of on Islet Tintoreras and I thought the white capped lava was bird poo, but come to find out - it's actually lichen. I was pretty impressed by this and now have even more rock photos.
Winding our way though hundreds of marine iguanas we come to a little cove with... white tipped reef sharks. Yes, the same kind on Santa Cruz, but the view here is clearer. Being the only shark that doesn't have to keep moving to breathe, these white tipped reef sharks come to rest. I was told that there was no snorkeling allowed in the cove with sharks - no worries - there's isn't enough money in the world to make me even consider getting in the water with sharks - even if they are "sleeping".
Walking on the islet was what I'd pictured the Galapagos to be. Black basalt, coral beaches, bright turquoise pools of water and of course the required sea lion pup frolicking about.
After the little boat trip I decided to find some lunch. I was warned that the fist question to ask a restaurant is "Do you have food?" and the second quesion - "What do you have?" I was told not to bother with a menu because chances are the restaurant would be out of whatever you wanted, and sure enough my first stop resulted in a strike out. I kept looking and found some ceviche. Shrimp ceviche with fried plantains! Super delicious!
I've been reading "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" on my kindle and I can't put it down! I stayed at lunch (yes, by myself) for over an hour and didn't feel awkard!
After lunch I headed down a nice pathway - past some salt lagoons and many birds - including pink flamingos - to the turtle breeding center.
I managed to visit a turtle breeding center on all three main islands. Each one uniquely built.
Isabella is home to 5 different species of Giant Tortoises. That's the most species on one island in the entire world. At the center they are trying to beef up the population. In the late 1700's whalers took over 200,000 turtles from the Galapagos. Since they can live without food or water for an extended period - the seamen could capture them and kill them for fresh meat when they were sailing. Also, they used the fat to burn for fuel. I guess we've always successfully raped the earth for our pleasure and comfort.
I found myself wandering aimlessly around the few streets and along the beach. My brain in wondering how I'm going to keep myself busy for three more days...
p.s. I finished "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" and thankfully have 50 more books at my fingertips on my kindle! Thanks Mama...
It was absolutely gorgeous. I just can't get over the crystal clear water lapping up onto the black basalt.
On our way over to the islet we spotted two penguins - Galapagos Penguins - the only penguins to venture into the northern hemispere, but of course right now I am just a bit below the equator. The penguins were resting next to some pelicans and a blue footed booby.
I also got my first really good spotting of sea turtles. The brother boat captain let us of on Islet Tintoreras and I thought the white capped lava was bird poo, but come to find out - it's actually lichen. I was pretty impressed by this and now have even more rock photos.
Winding our way though hundreds of marine iguanas we come to a little cove with... white tipped reef sharks. Yes, the same kind on Santa Cruz, but the view here is clearer. Being the only shark that doesn't have to keep moving to breathe, these white tipped reef sharks come to rest. I was told that there was no snorkeling allowed in the cove with sharks - no worries - there's isn't enough money in the world to make me even consider getting in the water with sharks - even if they are "sleeping".
Walking on the islet was what I'd pictured the Galapagos to be. Black basalt, coral beaches, bright turquoise pools of water and of course the required sea lion pup frolicking about.
After the little boat trip I decided to find some lunch. I was warned that the fist question to ask a restaurant is "Do you have food?" and the second quesion - "What do you have?" I was told not to bother with a menu because chances are the restaurant would be out of whatever you wanted, and sure enough my first stop resulted in a strike out. I kept looking and found some ceviche. Shrimp ceviche with fried plantains! Super delicious!
I've been reading "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" on my kindle and I can't put it down! I stayed at lunch (yes, by myself) for over an hour and didn't feel awkard!
After lunch I headed down a nice pathway - past some salt lagoons and many birds - including pink flamingos - to the turtle breeding center.
I managed to visit a turtle breeding center on all three main islands. Each one uniquely built.
Isabella is home to 5 different species of Giant Tortoises. That's the most species on one island in the entire world. At the center they are trying to beef up the population. In the late 1700's whalers took over 200,000 turtles from the Galapagos. Since they can live without food or water for an extended period - the seamen could capture them and kill them for fresh meat when they were sailing. Also, they used the fat to burn for fuel. I guess we've always successfully raped the earth for our pleasure and comfort.
I found myself wandering aimlessly around the few streets and along the beach. My brain in wondering how I'm going to keep myself busy for three more days...
p.s. I finished "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" and thankfully have 50 more books at my fingertips on my kindle! Thanks Mama...
26 July - Day 52: Igneous Rocks are super cool (well they started out really hot, but...)
One of the highlights and low points of discount travel is never really knowing what exactly is going on... today I only knew that I was to be up for breakfast at 7 am and then... the VOLCANO tour! Since I'm alone they just hook me up with other groups. Today I got stuck with a group of 25. Four people I recognized from the boat ride over and two were volunteers at Jatun Satcha. The one girl from the reserve is a super huge beeaattcchh and is constantly bragging about how "correct" she is in every way - oh - I don't drive a car, I only use public transportation - oh - I don't flush when the water is yellow, let it mellow - I am so politically correct - super annoying! I made a point early on in the day to avoid her and it worked. I ended up hiking with the guide who just happens to have been born in Isabella (oh if you could only see the hospital). Wait til I can upoad photos of the town... He was a joy to walk with and very excited about working for the National Park and his English was fantastic.
We drove up to the cloudy zone and started the soggy hike in the mud and mist. This island is the youngest and the most recent eruption was in 2005. It reminds me of the Big Island of Hawaii - lava everywhere. Of course the cloudy zone is moist enough to support vegetation so there is a lot of growth, but as you continue up to the crater you emerge from the clouds and suddenly it's very dry.
We stopped at a look out to see the Sierra Negra crater - the 2nd largest only behind Ngorongoro in Africa.
Sierra Negra is 10 km (6.2 mi) in diameter and the magma chamber in only 2 km deep! That's amazingly shallow when you think about it... oozing hot magma spinning around only 2 km below! There are vents on the crater floor - breathing. Sulfur is a common mineral found here and on the other side of the crater they are mining for sufur.
Shooting off from the same magma chamber as Sierra Negra are some parasitic volcanoes. The name implies just what they are... parasites sucking from the same magma source, but erupting thorough weaker points around the larger, main volcano.
Volcan Chico is a series of parasitic volcanoes. As we walked over I sped up to be alone, and was in absolute heaven. It's really difficult to find the right words to describe something that is so amazing. As I walk through the cooled lava field I notice the colors and think - mineral content - yellowish = sulfur, reddish = iron, blueish/greenish = mangenese, and black = magnesium - swirls of color in the ropey texture. I think of the magma source - the firey, liquid rock swelling under the crust. Pressure, temperautre - building... until... release. But the ropey texture imples not a burst, but an ooze. Oh there are signs of bursts here too. The pyroclastic debris - pieces of rock punctured by tiny holes - pockets of air trapped during the explosive event. Active.
Now in addition to my 1000's of photos of turtles, marine iguanas and sea lions I have volcano photos! Today was worth a lot of crappy travel days.
After the hike I decided that a baby powder shower wouldn't help remove the cakes of mud - so I did it - I braved the frigid hose they call a shower. There isn't a fresh water source on the island so they use brackish water in the pipes. Regardless of my shower, my hair still feels a bit stickey. I'm going to be a filthy mess by the time I get back to Bolivia.
Since it was only 3 pm I decided to explore the "town". Just wait... I did meet a couple of street puppies that were so excited when I crouched to take their photo that I couldn't get any background, but are you kidding me with those faces!
We drove up to the cloudy zone and started the soggy hike in the mud and mist. This island is the youngest and the most recent eruption was in 2005. It reminds me of the Big Island of Hawaii - lava everywhere. Of course the cloudy zone is moist enough to support vegetation so there is a lot of growth, but as you continue up to the crater you emerge from the clouds and suddenly it's very dry.
We stopped at a look out to see the Sierra Negra crater - the 2nd largest only behind Ngorongoro in Africa.
Sierra Negra is 10 km (6.2 mi) in diameter and the magma chamber in only 2 km deep! That's amazingly shallow when you think about it... oozing hot magma spinning around only 2 km below! There are vents on the crater floor - breathing. Sulfur is a common mineral found here and on the other side of the crater they are mining for sufur.
Shooting off from the same magma chamber as Sierra Negra are some parasitic volcanoes. The name implies just what they are... parasites sucking from the same magma source, but erupting thorough weaker points around the larger, main volcano.
Volcan Chico is a series of parasitic volcanoes. As we walked over I sped up to be alone, and was in absolute heaven. It's really difficult to find the right words to describe something that is so amazing. As I walk through the cooled lava field I notice the colors and think - mineral content - yellowish = sulfur, reddish = iron, blueish/greenish = mangenese, and black = magnesium - swirls of color in the ropey texture. I think of the magma source - the firey, liquid rock swelling under the crust. Pressure, temperautre - building... until... release. But the ropey texture imples not a burst, but an ooze. Oh there are signs of bursts here too. The pyroclastic debris - pieces of rock punctured by tiny holes - pockets of air trapped during the explosive event. Active.
Now in addition to my 1000's of photos of turtles, marine iguanas and sea lions I have volcano photos! Today was worth a lot of crappy travel days.
After the hike I decided that a baby powder shower wouldn't help remove the cakes of mud - so I did it - I braved the frigid hose they call a shower. There isn't a fresh water source on the island so they use brackish water in the pipes. Regardless of my shower, my hair still feels a bit stickey. I'm going to be a filthy mess by the time I get back to Bolivia.
Since it was only 3 pm I decided to explore the "town". Just wait... I did meet a couple of street puppies that were so excited when I crouched to take their photo that I couldn't get any background, but are you kidding me with those faces!
25 July - Day 51: Island hopping and Baby Powder Showers
My new showering strategy is to have as little contact as possible with the frigid water and to simply douse myself with baby powder. I even resorted to putting baby powder in my hair. I understand the energy requirements to heat water, but it is really cold here - they tell me the coldest it's been in two decades and I can not bear to put my head under a shower of ice cold water. Imagine it's a 50 degree day and you decide to bathe with the yard hose.
Six more nights... six more - I hate thinking that way - wishing my time away, but I just got off a 2 1/2 hour frigid boat ride, the sun has not peaked through once today (even though I've been on three different islands) and I would pay $20 for a nice HOT shower!
I started my day in San Cristobal - jetted over to Santa Cruz - and have just arrived on Isabella. After a total of 5 hours on a boat I'm not looking forward to the boat trip scheduled for Tuesday. I managed to keep all my food in, but it's probably because at 6:30 am I drugged myself with two mareols and then I swallowed down one more for the afternoon ride. I probably should have taken two more and just passed out because the last ride was rough. It was a smaller boat and at times we were entrenched in a wave and couldn't see the horizon for a few seconds. That and slamming down in the waves was enough to bring up anyone's lunch. I listened to my IPOD and that kept my mind busy.
My first reaction upon arrival to Isabella is... ewwww, ugly. My hostel overlooks a vacant lot with an old dirty matress and laundry hanging. The "port" is not a port at all and just a dock that leads to a street. I don't have a sense of orientation yet - so maybe I'll feel better when I do. I usually catch on to directions fairly quickly, so we'll see how I do when I get some daylight hours.
My hostel doesn´t look that bad, right? Well here´s the view across the street...
Bummer, really because the places on the beach are really nice...
Isabella is the largest island and made up of 6 volcanoes. Sierra negra is the 2nd largest crater in the world! The port here, Puerto Villamil, has 1000 residents and is referred to as "off the beaten track" (I'd say...) My guidebook doesn't even include a map of this town...
The plan for the week is three day tours and two free days. I've got my fingers crossed!
Six more nights... six more - I hate thinking that way - wishing my time away, but I just got off a 2 1/2 hour frigid boat ride, the sun has not peaked through once today (even though I've been on three different islands) and I would pay $20 for a nice HOT shower!
I started my day in San Cristobal - jetted over to Santa Cruz - and have just arrived on Isabella. After a total of 5 hours on a boat I'm not looking forward to the boat trip scheduled for Tuesday. I managed to keep all my food in, but it's probably because at 6:30 am I drugged myself with two mareols and then I swallowed down one more for the afternoon ride. I probably should have taken two more and just passed out because the last ride was rough. It was a smaller boat and at times we were entrenched in a wave and couldn't see the horizon for a few seconds. That and slamming down in the waves was enough to bring up anyone's lunch. I listened to my IPOD and that kept my mind busy.
My first reaction upon arrival to Isabella is... ewwww, ugly. My hostel overlooks a vacant lot with an old dirty matress and laundry hanging. The "port" is not a port at all and just a dock that leads to a street. I don't have a sense of orientation yet - so maybe I'll feel better when I do. I usually catch on to directions fairly quickly, so we'll see how I do when I get some daylight hours.
Isabella is the largest island and made up of 6 volcanoes. Sierra negra is the 2nd largest crater in the world! The port here, Puerto Villamil, has 1000 residents and is referred to as "off the beaten track" (I'd say...) My guidebook doesn't even include a map of this town...
The plan for the week is three day tours and two free days. I've got my fingers crossed!
Sunday, July 25, 2010
24 July - Day 50 : Lions (sea), iguanas (marine), and birds (boobies) - OH MY
Another really pleasant day. I left my hostel in search of some breakfast and ran into one of the volunteers from Jatun Satcha. She´s close to my age, from Germany, and I didn´t really get a chance to talk to her at the reserve... we decided to get breakfast together. After we ate she mentioned going to La Loberia - the beach about 40 minutes walk that everyone went to yesterday. She wanted to go back and enjoy it without so many people, so we ended up hanging out all day. It was great.
La Loberia (oh wait for the photos) is known for lots of sea lions, marine iguanas and birds - oh good - I like all of those things! Of course the weather wouldn´t cooperate and we almost turned around because of the rain, but at that point we were already soaked and kept going. I am so glad because we, of course, saw tons of sea lions, but sea turtles as well! the infamous turquoise water was surrounded by black igneous rocks and the white beaches composed of broken sea shells and purple urchin spines. Who doesn´t love frolicking sea lions? It was too cold to swim, but I did have my bathing suit on for the 2nd time this ENTIRE summer!
We hiked up to a cliff, winding our way across the sharp lava. At the top of the cliff we saw birds - a few Nazca boobys, but mostly swallow-tailed gulls with their red eye circle and red feet.
It´s true, when you travel alone you can meet some really cool people. I deserved this - after babysitting - and the reserve "camp".
We took photos, talked and hiked. My stomach was digesting itself by the time we got back into town.
I really needed this type of day. Full of exercise, but relaxing at the same time, good company, along the coast and cool animals to observe. Now this is that I was expecting!
Tomorrow I´m off bright and early to catch the 7 am boat to Santa Cruz, then to the 2 pm boat to Isabella... My last week...
La Loberia (oh wait for the photos) is known for lots of sea lions, marine iguanas and birds - oh good - I like all of those things! Of course the weather wouldn´t cooperate and we almost turned around because of the rain, but at that point we were already soaked and kept going. I am so glad because we, of course, saw tons of sea lions, but sea turtles as well! the infamous turquoise water was surrounded by black igneous rocks and the white beaches composed of broken sea shells and purple urchin spines. Who doesn´t love frolicking sea lions? It was too cold to swim, but I did have my bathing suit on for the 2nd time this ENTIRE summer!
We hiked up to a cliff, winding our way across the sharp lava. At the top of the cliff we saw birds - a few Nazca boobys, but mostly swallow-tailed gulls with their red eye circle and red feet.
It´s true, when you travel alone you can meet some really cool people. I deserved this - after babysitting - and the reserve "camp".
We took photos, talked and hiked. My stomach was digesting itself by the time we got back into town.
I really needed this type of day. Full of exercise, but relaxing at the same time, good company, along the coast and cool animals to observe. Now this is that I was expecting!
Tomorrow I´m off bright and early to catch the 7 am boat to Santa Cruz, then to the 2 pm boat to Isabella... My last week...
23 July - Day 49: What am I? A rodent magnet?
I would like to move on from my time at Jatun Satcha, but before I do let me tell you about last night... it´s a mosquito net... not a mouse net!
Last night I get ready for bed and packed up and open my mosquito net - climb up to the top bunk and what runs across the end of my bed... yup, you guessed it - a mouse. Cute, sure, but it scared the crap out of me and my heart stopped beating for a moment and then resumed at triple the normal speed. Holy CRAP! I jump down and try to shake the ickyness from my arms and legs. After I regain a bit of composure I peak back up and he´s still there! Really, serioulsy, this is NOT happening. That´s it - I´m going to sleep standing up in the middle of the room.
I did manage to force myself back into the bed and I think I slept 15 minutes all night...
Thankfully the taxi´s were ordered to arrive at 8 am and I´m outta here!
The plan was to do a "group" thing at a beach with everyone from Jatun Satcha... I quietly slipped away once we arrived to town and went to my private room.
After hand washing a few essential items, I heard some trumpets and drums and looked out to find a parade coming down my street! It must be some military thing because each set is dressed in their uniforms and holding their various tools - guns, flippers, helmuts, and of course the band with their instruments. I grabbed my camera and rushed out to see.
Hummm... 23 July... what´s the significance? I heard someone say something about independence day, but for all of Ecuador - or maybe when Ecuador finally grabbed onto the Galapagos. The only thing I found in my guide book is that tomorrow is the birth of Simon Bolivar and a public holiday.
Now I have the day free - some "Lisa Time". After photographing sea lions (for the 100th time) I decided to have some lunch and then head to the Interpretation Center. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the captial of the Galapagos, but smaller than Puerto Ayora. Being the captial, however, the National Park headquarters are here, and the center of interpretation. It is very nicely done with lots of cultural, geological and biological information. There are wooden walkways of paths leading from the center around the area. I decide to have a look...
I come to a snrokel cove and what do I find....
OMG, they are soooo cute! I am literally 5 feet from them. I didn´t bring any gear so I´m just sitting on the lava filming the sea lions playing. This is a fantastic place to swim with the sea lions.
The big afternoon plan was to find a new hat. I´ve decided that my stinky red visor must go. I can no longer get the smell out, so I´m on the look out for a Galapagos hat.
I´ve had quite a pleasant day. The sun made a few brief appearances - enough that I had to buy some more sun screen. It was so nice to be on my own schedule. I was going to try and meet up with a few people from the group for dinner, but realized that I had just had 9 meals with them at the reserve. I am ready for a peaceful night.
Last night I get ready for bed and packed up and open my mosquito net - climb up to the top bunk and what runs across the end of my bed... yup, you guessed it - a mouse. Cute, sure, but it scared the crap out of me and my heart stopped beating for a moment and then resumed at triple the normal speed. Holy CRAP! I jump down and try to shake the ickyness from my arms and legs. After I regain a bit of composure I peak back up and he´s still there! Really, serioulsy, this is NOT happening. That´s it - I´m going to sleep standing up in the middle of the room.
I did manage to force myself back into the bed and I think I slept 15 minutes all night...
Thankfully the taxi´s were ordered to arrive at 8 am and I´m outta here!
The plan was to do a "group" thing at a beach with everyone from Jatun Satcha... I quietly slipped away once we arrived to town and went to my private room.
After hand washing a few essential items, I heard some trumpets and drums and looked out to find a parade coming down my street! It must be some military thing because each set is dressed in their uniforms and holding their various tools - guns, flippers, helmuts, and of course the band with their instruments. I grabbed my camera and rushed out to see.
Hummm... 23 July... what´s the significance? I heard someone say something about independence day, but for all of Ecuador - or maybe when Ecuador finally grabbed onto the Galapagos. The only thing I found in my guide book is that tomorrow is the birth of Simon Bolivar and a public holiday.
Now I have the day free - some "Lisa Time". After photographing sea lions (for the 100th time) I decided to have some lunch and then head to the Interpretation Center. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the captial of the Galapagos, but smaller than Puerto Ayora. Being the captial, however, the National Park headquarters are here, and the center of interpretation. It is very nicely done with lots of cultural, geological and biological information. There are wooden walkways of paths leading from the center around the area. I decide to have a look...
I come to a snrokel cove and what do I find....
OMG, they are soooo cute! I am literally 5 feet from them. I didn´t bring any gear so I´m just sitting on the lava filming the sea lions playing. This is a fantastic place to swim with the sea lions.
The big afternoon plan was to find a new hat. I´ve decided that my stinky red visor must go. I can no longer get the smell out, so I´m on the look out for a Galapagos hat.
I´ve had quite a pleasant day. The sun made a few brief appearances - enough that I had to buy some more sun screen. It was so nice to be on my own schedule. I was going to try and meet up with a few people from the group for dinner, but realized that I had just had 9 meals with them at the reserve. I am ready for a peaceful night.
22 June - Day 48: Is Candid Camera here?
I didn´t write yesterday - and it´s not because of the lack of time... There is way too much free time here and not many comfortable places to chill out, and even fewer places to be alone. Let me tell you the schedule...
7:00 am Breakfast
8:00 - 10:00 Work
10:00 - 10:30 Break
10:30 - 12:00 Work
12:00 - 2:00 Lunch and break
2:00 - 4:00 Work
6:00 Dinner
6:30 Now what?
And this schedule is if everyone is on time, which hasn´t happened yet. A 2 pm start time actally means 2:45, so work is "work".
I can´t be thankful enough that I am only here for 3 1/2 days. Some people are here for 6 weeks! I keep expecting Ashton Kutcher to jump out of the blackberry bush and tell me that I´ve been punked - RUFMITA! This is good actually, it helps me see that you really have to do more research to find a place to volunteer.
The people here are ok. The age range is from 18 - 40ish. The sleeping situation is communial so last night when everyone decided that 6:30 was too early for bed and we should walk up to the "bar" which is really just the neighbor´s house, and they´ll sell us alcohol, people´s edicate flew out the window. Coming back drunk and just chatting away while people are sleeping is just rude. I know, I know... I´m old, but still...
The group dynamics are really strange. They´ve thrown a bunch of strangers together and you spend all day with each other. The reserve makes no effort to do team building. I really should be a consultant for businesses... just a very few small, inexpensive changes could really benefit this place greatly. I´m a problem solver - give me your problems and I can find a solution!
The work... is it making a difference... that´s the BIG question. The main work at this reserve (Jatun Satcha has 6 reserved around Ecuador) is to try and get rid of the highly invasive introduced blackberry bushes. The mora (blackberry) grows like vines and is covered with thick, painful thorns. It is fast growing and of course out competes the native species. So daily volunteers armed with a bug hat, rubber boots and a machete venture off inot the woods to chop. It´s satisifying actually - hacking at a plant with a machete. But, what you begin to see is that under all the new growth that we are choppin is cut up mora that someone else chopped a few months ago... hummm... if the new growth is on top of the old... is the chopping working? It feels like busy work, but they need something for the volunteers to do for 5 1/2 hours a day.
It´s a new day - I have one more night of sleep here. The mosquito net gives such a false sense of security that sleeping isn´t as creepy as I had anticipated, althouh it hasn´t been super pleasant either.
The pouring rains has stopped for now... let´s see that today brings...
Surprise - we are going to the Galapaguera - which has a turtle conservation and breeding center and a modern plant nursery - this is GOOD news - a little change up to the activities.
We head out - 11 of us in a pick up - 6 in the back and we bump down the lava roads.
The center is very well done - modern. The breeding strategy is to let the turtles lay their eggs and go out and collect them from their nest and put them into a protected area so that the introduced dogs, goats, and rats don´t dig them up and eat them.
It was also a bit warmer here - so a welcome relief - and a chance to thaw out.
After stuffing bags with soil we went back to the reserve. I´m really ready to move on - although I´m glad I got to see the reserve today.
One more cold night at Jatun Satcha...
7:00 am Breakfast
8:00 - 10:00 Work
10:00 - 10:30 Break
10:30 - 12:00 Work
12:00 - 2:00 Lunch and break
2:00 - 4:00 Work
6:00 Dinner
6:30 Now what?
And this schedule is if everyone is on time, which hasn´t happened yet. A 2 pm start time actally means 2:45, so work is "work".
I can´t be thankful enough that I am only here for 3 1/2 days. Some people are here for 6 weeks! I keep expecting Ashton Kutcher to jump out of the blackberry bush and tell me that I´ve been punked - RUFMITA! This is good actually, it helps me see that you really have to do more research to find a place to volunteer.
The people here are ok. The age range is from 18 - 40ish. The sleeping situation is communial so last night when everyone decided that 6:30 was too early for bed and we should walk up to the "bar" which is really just the neighbor´s house, and they´ll sell us alcohol, people´s edicate flew out the window. Coming back drunk and just chatting away while people are sleeping is just rude. I know, I know... I´m old, but still...
The group dynamics are really strange. They´ve thrown a bunch of strangers together and you spend all day with each other. The reserve makes no effort to do team building. I really should be a consultant for businesses... just a very few small, inexpensive changes could really benefit this place greatly. I´m a problem solver - give me your problems and I can find a solution!
The work... is it making a difference... that´s the BIG question. The main work at this reserve (Jatun Satcha has 6 reserved around Ecuador) is to try and get rid of the highly invasive introduced blackberry bushes. The mora (blackberry) grows like vines and is covered with thick, painful thorns. It is fast growing and of course out competes the native species. So daily volunteers armed with a bug hat, rubber boots and a machete venture off inot the woods to chop. It´s satisifying actually - hacking at a plant with a machete. But, what you begin to see is that under all the new growth that we are choppin is cut up mora that someone else chopped a few months ago... hummm... if the new growth is on top of the old... is the chopping working? It feels like busy work, but they need something for the volunteers to do for 5 1/2 hours a day.
It´s a new day - I have one more night of sleep here. The mosquito net gives such a false sense of security that sleeping isn´t as creepy as I had anticipated, althouh it hasn´t been super pleasant either.
The pouring rains has stopped for now... let´s see that today brings...
Surprise - we are going to the Galapaguera - which has a turtle conservation and breeding center and a modern plant nursery - this is GOOD news - a little change up to the activities.
We head out - 11 of us in a pick up - 6 in the back and we bump down the lava roads.
The center is very well done - modern. The breeding strategy is to let the turtles lay their eggs and go out and collect them from their nest and put them into a protected area so that the introduced dogs, goats, and rats don´t dig them up and eat them.
It was also a bit warmer here - so a welcome relief - and a chance to thaw out.
After stuffing bags with soil we went back to the reserve. I´m really ready to move on - although I´m glad I got to see the reserve today.
One more cold night at Jatun Satcha...
20 July - Day 46; People pay to do this?
At the reserve... and... it´s really beautiful, really...
you ready for the BIG BUTT... whew - deep breath- bugs, so many that you need to wear a bug hat. OK I can wear one, too bad no one told me to bring one, I actually own a bug hat and have it in Bolivia with me - that way I wouldn´t need to borrow a moldy, stinky one. Work - manuel labor - I actually enjoy a bit of manuel labor and when you are on kitchen duty you get out of work, but I´d much rather be in the reserve working than in the kitchen!
Reforestation of native species is the goal. Pull out the invasive blackberry bushes - which have taken over and are covered with nasty thorns, and plant native trees. I planted 8 trees today! That´s cool. Everything is covered in mud. The last place did a really good job cleaning up even when someone broke the rules and walked with their boots in a forbidden zone. This place appears to make no effort to clean and even though they force you to take off your boots the floor is covered in dirt and now your socks are filth. A nice brush-like broom would fix this problem.
Lunch was OK - rice and meat - you are in charge of washing your own plate - in cold water with a nasty sponge - my mom would have a heart attack.
OK - I´ve saved the best for last and I haven´t even had the full experience yet... the sleeping quarters! I´m sad that they other guy planted the bed bug idea in my head because the matresses are repulsive - all of them. I´ve sprayed the crap out of one with bug spray and then they put sheets on a different bed. Oh - it´s gross. I asked about a blanket or something - and they were like, "oh" you didn´t bring your own sleeping bag? Well... nooo... just like the bug hat, that wasn´t on the "list". Damn, now I have to use a sleeping bag from here. How am I ever going to sleep? I´m repulsed just thinking of getting into that bed. I´m trying to think back to girl scout camp... when I was - what - 8 years old... I don´t remember the sleeping quarters - were they gross?
you ready for the BIG BUTT... whew - deep breath- bugs, so many that you need to wear a bug hat. OK I can wear one, too bad no one told me to bring one, I actually own a bug hat and have it in Bolivia with me - that way I wouldn´t need to borrow a moldy, stinky one. Work - manuel labor - I actually enjoy a bit of manuel labor and when you are on kitchen duty you get out of work, but I´d much rather be in the reserve working than in the kitchen!
Reforestation of native species is the goal. Pull out the invasive blackberry bushes - which have taken over and are covered with nasty thorns, and plant native trees. I planted 8 trees today! That´s cool. Everything is covered in mud. The last place did a really good job cleaning up even when someone broke the rules and walked with their boots in a forbidden zone. This place appears to make no effort to clean and even though they force you to take off your boots the floor is covered in dirt and now your socks are filth. A nice brush-like broom would fix this problem.
Lunch was OK - rice and meat - you are in charge of washing your own plate - in cold water with a nasty sponge - my mom would have a heart attack.
OK - I´ve saved the best for last and I haven´t even had the full experience yet... the sleeping quarters! I´m sad that they other guy planted the bed bug idea in my head because the matresses are repulsive - all of them. I´ve sprayed the crap out of one with bug spray and then they put sheets on a different bed. Oh - it´s gross. I asked about a blanket or something - and they were like, "oh" you didn´t bring your own sleeping bag? Well... nooo... just like the bug hat, that wasn´t on the "list". Damn, now I have to use a sleeping bag from here. How am I ever going to sleep? I´m repulsed just thinking of getting into that bed. I´m trying to think back to girl scout camp... when I was - what - 8 years old... I don´t remember the sleeping quarters - were they gross?
19 July - Day 45: Welcome to San Cristobal!
Spent my last night in Santa Cruz and headed for Isla San Cristobal. Decided, upon the advice of another traveler, to take two mareol pills (for motion sicknes). I guess I would rather be passed out than hanging overboard. The boat was smaller than I expected, seating around 15, and went fast. The open choppy water freaks me out! The dark swells have past significance for me, why else would I have such intense fear? Another piece of advice was to sit in the back, so I did. A guy traveling with Lead Adventures joined me for the boat ride. He is not doing the volunteer work here because he has heard some horror stories. He shared information about bed bugs, dirt, cabins with screaming kids, damn, not more crap! I guess it´s good to lower my expectations now.
The boat ride was 2 hours and I was very cold the entire way, but at least had fresh air. I managed to keep in the little lunch that I ate. It was hard to socialize over the sound of the motors, so I just did a bit of meditation exercises to keep my mind focuses. There were stretches where I couldn´t see land in any direction - I really don´t like that!
We arrived in the capital of the province of the Galapagos - Porto Baquerizo Moreno. It´s cute. Quaint. Has a completely different feel from Porto Ayora.
The hotel here seems nice. It has a/c which I can´t imagine ever needing, a little heat would be nicer, a TV, and a mini fridge, and as far as I can tell - no rats. I wish I´d had this place for the past couple of nights.
The other traveler and I headed to find some food and chit chat. I´ve got to get used to eating alone again...
After dinner we walked along the port area and there were 100´s of sea lions sleeping on the beaches. I tried to get a few shots, but my camera isn´t very good with night shots.
Tomorrow I head up to the highlands. Cross your fingers that it´s not as bad as he heard. I am there for 3 1/2 days... I guess we´ll soon find out.
The boat ride was 2 hours and I was very cold the entire way, but at least had fresh air. I managed to keep in the little lunch that I ate. It was hard to socialize over the sound of the motors, so I just did a bit of meditation exercises to keep my mind focuses. There were stretches where I couldn´t see land in any direction - I really don´t like that!
We arrived in the capital of the province of the Galapagos - Porto Baquerizo Moreno. It´s cute. Quaint. Has a completely different feel from Porto Ayora.
The hotel here seems nice. It has a/c which I can´t imagine ever needing, a little heat would be nicer, a TV, and a mini fridge, and as far as I can tell - no rats. I wish I´d had this place for the past couple of nights.
The other traveler and I headed to find some food and chit chat. I´ve got to get used to eating alone again...
After dinner we walked along the port area and there were 100´s of sea lions sleeping on the beaches. I tried to get a few shots, but my camera isn´t very good with night shots.
Tomorrow I head up to the highlands. Cross your fingers that it´s not as bad as he heard. I am there for 3 1/2 days... I guess we´ll soon find out.
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